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Chteau le Prieur Hotel Review, Pays de la Loire, France

Classic French cuisine from a Michelin-starred chef with contemporary flair and a concise menu. Escargots, foie gras (pan-fried), and langoustines cooked and tartare feature as starters (average €24 [£21]); mains include three fish options, beef, rabbit and veal sweetbreads (average €27 [£24]). 'Greek' is an insufficient description for the vegetable accompaniments; this delightful concoction consists of roasted fennel, baby root veg, local mushrooms, fresh peas and edible flowers. I enjoyed them with red quinoa as a light lunch, frankly a dish I never thought I’d see the day I’d consume in the motherland of gluttonous gastronomy.

The cheese course (€15 [£13]) is an absolute must - a trolley groaning with two layers (one cow; one goat, naturellement). Let the waiter serve you a selection; it’s all phenomenal. The wine listing is somewhat intimidating pour les Anglais, but again ask the sommelier for recommendations to accompany your food. A good number are available by the half bottle. The best dessert is the Cointreau soufflé, with predictably perfect light texture, served alongside a zingy carrot and orange sorbet (€17 [£15]). Recline on a chaise longue with a digestif in the bar when you’ve finished. A tasting menu available Wednesday to Saturday lunchtimes of three courses for €25 (£22) is ridiculously good value.

In fine weather, take your apéritifs and breakfast on the terrace. The latter is a simple but delicious buffet featuring oats, seeds, dried fruit, compote, fresh yogurt and cheeses, cold cuts and smoked salmon. Hot options include creamy scrambled or boil-your-own eggs, potato cakes, bacon and sausages. Save room for the excellent mini pastries, breads and brioche, accompanied by my personal favourite element, homemade chocolate spread and jams. Orange, apple and carrot juices (from concentrate) are available. Coffee is served to your table; tea is available.

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